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Article #71: A few notices, curiosities and some advice for tasting caviar a delicacy originating in Russia but nowadays imitated and produced almost everywhere.

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Like it or not, everyone knows that it is scallion (sweetened in water), minced
a Russian specialty, inseparable from hard-boiled egg (yellow and white).
vodka... The word, however, is of Turkish Carefully spread caviar on thin slices of
origin: "Kawiar" became "caviale" in lightly toasted and buttered bread. Warm
Italian, then "caviar" in French, all blinis (Russian crepes), spread with
this before the Russians even arrived whipped cream, are also particularly good
upon the Volga River or the Caspian Sea accompaniment.
in the 16th century. Before the word To top it all off, a glass of ice-cold
entered into the Russian lexicon, roe vodka, making sure to drink it only at
from all fish, including the sturgeon and the end in order to avoid numbing the
salmon, was referred to as "ikra", a word palate while tasting the caviar.
of Slavic origins decidedly. If you do not like caviar at all, at
The first to consume caviar were Muslims least try eggplant caviar, which is
living in the Caspian region, who had to nothing more than a mash of eggplant
content themselves with the eggs due to pulp!
their religion prohibiting them from 95% of the caviar produced in the world
eating sturgeon meat. There is no comes from sturgeon caught in the Caspian
question, however, that the Russian czars Sea by Russian and Iranian fishermen. The
and their subjects made up for lost time remaining 5% is produced in China, the
in consuming sturgeon roe. After the fall USA, France and also Italy. Widespread
of the Soviet Union caviar was no longer opinion holds that the most valuable
produced exclusively in Russia and Iran caviar is the Iranian. This is because
but also in Azerbaidjan, Kazakistan and the Caspian Sea is deeper on the Iranian
Turkmenistan. In other words, it was also side, never freezing, crossed by currents
produced by the nations along the banks that oxygenate its waters, with a gravely
of the Caspian Sea who rushed to take bottom as opposed to the muddier bottom
advantage of the prolific riches of the on the Russian side. In Iran, female
Caspian. According to experts, the sturgeon fishing is under the supervision
pressure exerted by these nations of Cites, the international regulatory
combined with the ecological disasters of body overseeing its quantity and quality.
the Volga River and the Caspian Sea will For this reason caviar lovers widely
bring about, in 7-10 years the agree that the best caviar is Iranian.
near-complete disappearance of The sturgeon's preferred habitat is in
black-caviar. Enjoy it while it lasts! much deeper and warmer waters than those
Caviar can be fresh, not sterilized, of the Iranian banks of the Caspian. So
thereby fully preserving its flavour. the Iranian fishermen set up their nets
Fresh caviar, however, must be kept far from shore, allowing them to catch
refrigerated and has a limited duration, the females before they begin their
from 2 to 6 months, depending on the type journey to the river mouths that feed
of manufacturing. Sterilized caviar has a into the Caspian. The sturgeon is then
long preservation time, it usually comes anesthetized and the caviar is extracted
in a glass jar and can be kept for a by an entirely manual process which
longer time at room temperature, but it includes caesarean, the separation of the
definitely loses its flavour. The eggs of eggs by dimension and then cleaning. Once
the Beluga are the largest and reach 2.5 the eggs have been selected and
millimetres in diameter. They are categorized they are salted and packaged.
considered the most valuable when they Packing is a very delicate operation. In
have clear shadings; those of the Sevruga fact, after having filled the containers,
are instead the smallest (about 1 the lid is put on with utmost caution;
millimetre), but they are characterized light pressure is applied with the hand
by an enhanced flavour; Osetra (about 2 so that any entrapped air exits the
millimetres) vaguely recalls the taste of container. An airtight rubber seal is
walnut, has a clear green-grey colour and then finally put on the lid. The oily
a gilded quality. Sterlet caviar was only liquid that usually comes out of the
eaten by the families of the SciĆ  and containers during storage is a sign of
the Zar. its freshness.
The sturgeon (Acipenser sturio) is a The Russians, meanwhile, are forced to
prehistoric lance like fish with very wait for the females to arrive at the
small, fine scales and an elongated snout mouth of the Volga to fish them, by which
with four tactile feelers at the tip. The time the eggs have matured further,
beluga sturgeon (Huso huso) is the losing many of the qualities that are
largest, weighing up to 400 Kg and said to make the Iranian caviar better
measuring up to 4 meters in length. It is (crunchy skin, defined grain etc). It is
extremely rare (fewer than 100 are caught also worth noting that the Iranian method
per year) and varies in colour from a of anesthetizing the fish allows it to be
clear grey to black. The osetra sturgeon brought to the collection points where
(Acipenser gueldenstaedtii colchicus) the caesarean is performed alive, so as
weighs up to 200 Kg and measures up to 2 to ensure maximum freshness of the eggs.
meters. The sevruga sturgeon (Acipenser Sturgeon fishing season starts in
stellatus) is very thin, weighing up to February and ends in May, but the best
30 Kg and measuring up to 1.5 meters. quality caviar is produced in the spring.
Beluga caviar can comprise up to 15% of Although Russian caviar is more
the sturgeon's weight! The beluga commercialized, the uniformity of the
sturgeon is a wild and robust fish and is grain, the crunchy skin, the dodecagonal
hard to catch. It travels to the streams shape (as opposed to spherical) and a
to lay its eggs only every 2-4 years. much defined grain (not sticky) of the
There are numerous kinds of jars and tins Iranian caviar render it the preferred
of caviar, the most well known being caviar among chefs worldwide.
Beluga (blue tin), whose grey eggs are Fresh caviar can be recognized by odour,
appraised by clarity, the clearest being which carries a hint of the sea in it,
of highest value (000 clear grey, 00 and its delicate taste. Any fishy odour
medium grey, 0 dark grey). Next is Osetra or spicy taste immediately signals that
(yellow tin), the eggs are also grey but the caviar is not fresh. The grain must
smaller than Beluga, with a nutty be well defined, in the shape of a
flavour. A highly refined type of Osetra dodecagon, not sticky and without any
is also known as Golden Royal and was surrounding liquid. The tin should be
prized by Russian czars. Karaburun eggs tightly packed, without any empty space
vary in colour from amber-yellow to under the lid. If the caviar is not fresh
greyish yellow. Finally, the most common or has been exposed to heat the rupturing
and least expensive type, while delicious of the grains causes liquid to form and
nonetheless when fresh and authentic, is the quality to diminish.
Sevruga (red tin). It is always From a dietetic point of view, it is a
preferable to select your confections nutritive food, rich in proteins, fats,
behind glass, so as to be able to verify phospholipids and lecithin. It provides
its quality (shine, colour, consistency), 280 Kcal. per 100 g of product. contains
as well as the expiration date. considerable amounts of the vitamins A,
The flavour of caviar is fine, delicate, C, PP, B2, B4 and B12 as well as both
rich of tonality, with a precise aroma, folic and pantothenic acids. As for
and probably among the best of gourmet proteins it contains arginine, istidine,
food. For this reason, the best way to leucine, lysine, and methionine all
taste caviar is to eat it alone, possibly essential amino acids.
after being chilled on ice in its The most expensive and very rare caviar
container, opened just before eating. For is the Almas, packaged in 24 karat gold
the best taste, use a non-metallic tins and sold at up to $24,000 per kg!
teaspoon made of something like bone or Its whitish colour is due to the age of
nacre. Above all else it must be tasted the sturgeon from which it is harvested
without lemon, which alters its real and its flavour is marvellous.
flavour! An elegant coupling with the Caviar is said to bear aphrodisiacal
four caviar varieties can be realized qualities.
using whipped butter with vodka, minced






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